Friday, September 7, 2012

To Love or to Loathe: The Betrayal of Sunscreen

   Sunscreen is one product that bridges age, economic status, and cultural bounds. If you want to protect yourself from sunburns/sun damage (short term) and skin cancer (long term), sunscreen is an irreplaceable product.

Yet somehow there are a great many (75%, according to EWG 2012 Sunscreen Guide) that don't meet even basic criteria for safety. Perhaps this explains why skin cancer is the most common type of cancer- even when combining breast, prostate, and colon?

To lend a helping hand in choosing not only an EFFECTIVE sunscreen but also a SAFE one, we have compared a couple of the leading brands for babies/children with our own Episencial brand. 
     

     
Aveeno vs. Coppertone vs. Episencial

 
Description:
"This broad spectrum, lightweight, non-greasy moisturizer is water resistant for up to 80 minutes of sprinkler – proof fun! Safe minerals work to protect the skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays, while aloe and green tea extract keep skin cool and protected from IR damage."



Ingredients:
Active Ingredients:
Titanium Dioxide 11%- Sunscreen, UV filter, inhalation concern in aerosol form
Zinc Oxide 5.5%- Sunscreen, inhalation concern in aerosol form

Inactive Ingredients:
Acrylates Copolymer- film forming, binding agent
(C12-C15) Alkyl Benzoate- skin conditioning, lubricant, reduces greasiness
Aloe Barbadensis Flower- Aloe Vera, soothing, healing
Camellia Sinensis- Organic green tea, antioxidant, added skin & IR protection
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides- skin conditioning agent
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil-  Organic Safflower, skin conditioning agent, occlusion, nutritive
Cetearyl Alcohol (Plant Derived)- emulsion stabilizer, viscosity increasing
Cetearyl Glucoside- emulsifying agent
Ethylhexyl Palmitate- fragrance agent, skin conditioning, irritation concerns
Glycerin (Plant Derived)- naturally occurring, denaturant
Glyceryl Stearate SEsurfactant, emulsifying agent
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil- sunflower, skin conditioning, nutritive
Isopropyl Palmitate- palm oil, binder, skin conditioning, nutritive
Isostearic Acid- binding agent
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil- Meadowfoam oilskin conditioner, nutritive
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate- vitamin C, antioxidant for added protection
Persea Gratissima Oil- Avocado oil, moisturizer, skin conditioning
Polyhydroxystearic Acid- suspending agent 
Triethoxycaprylylsilane- binding agent
Water (Aqua)
Xanthan Gum- natural thickener 


The Good
1. No additives, Parabens, Phenoxyethanol, harsh preservatives, EDTA, SLS, synthetic fragrances, phthalates, or gluten
2. Low EWG score of a 2
3. Gentle enough for face or body
4. Water resistant (up to 80 minutes) with antioxidants for added protection

The Bad
1. Getting a pure (effective) product can sometimes cost a bit more than typical sunscreen


Near Natural Product
Coppertone Water Babies Pure & Simple Sunscreen Lotion - SPF 50 - 8 oz

Description:
"#1 Pediatrician Recommended Brand
·      Broad Spectrum
UVA/UVB Protection
·      Hypoallergenic
·      Waterproof
Coppertone® WaterBabies® Pure & Simple Sunscreen Lotion
means: Oil Free, Fragrance Free and Dye Free."

Ingredients:
Active Ingredients:
Octinoxate (7.5%)- UV filter, enhanced skin absorption, cellular level changes, hormone disruption, 
Octisalate (5%)- UV filter/light absorber, enhanced skin absorption- increases sunscreen ingredients to enter the skin, relatively safe (3)
Zinc Oxide (14.5%)- Skin protectant, persistance & bioaccumulation concerns, possible organ toxicity concerns (in aerosol use)

Inactive Ingredients:
Water
Propylene Glycol- concern for developing allergies (immunotoxicity) especially in children, contact dermatitis and contact urticaria in humans
C12 15 Alcohol Benzoate- lubricant
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate- skin conditioning agent
Cyclopentasiloxane- may cause disruption in hormones
Cetyl/PEG/PPG 10/1 Dimethicone- skin conditioning, may contain toxic impurities
PEG 12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer- organ system toxicity, contamination concerns, shouldn't be used on damaged skin
Triethoxycaprylylsilane- synthetic, silicon-based binder, limited information
Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) Extract- soothing
Ethylhexyl Palmitate- skin, eye, & lung irritation, environmental pollutant
Diazolidinyl Urea- antimicrobial preservative (synthetic) that acts an formaldehyde releaser
Methylparabensynthetic preservative, also know for endocrine/hormone disruption as well as organ system toxicity and cellular level changes (linked to cancer), interferes with gene expression
Ethylparabensynthetic preservative, known for endocrine/hormone disruption 
Sodium Chloride- salt



The Good:
1. Likely your mother's trusted brand- and who could forget the timeless Coppertone baby graphic
2. Cleaner than most sunscreens available on the shelf- keep in mind only this particular formula
3. Recent updates to their formula which has brought it much closer to "near natural" status


The Bad:
1. Use of parabens, formaldehyde releaser, and other synthetic substances linked to various types of toxicity
2. Ingredients are overall less safe than alternatives




Seemingly Natural Product
Aveeno Baby Continuous Protection Sunblock Lotion SPF 55
 
Description:
"Pediatrician recommended for over 60 years.
Continuous Protection™ Sunblock Lotion with SPF 55 is formulated to provide better, longer-lasting sun protection from the sun's harmful rays. It combines patented Active Photobarrier Complex™, which maintains broad spectrum protection over time, with natural skin soothing oatmeal to care for baby's delicate skin. Gentle enough for baby's delicate skin, this non-greasy, skin-soothing, natural oatmeal formula is waterproof, helps prevent moisture loss and is as mild as water to the skin.
Simply put, Active Naturals™ are ingredients derived from nature and uniquely formulated to reveal skin's natural health and beauty.
Essential Active Naturals®: Skin soothing oatmeal."




Ingredients:
Active Ingredients:
Avobenzone- UV filter/light absorber,
HomosalateUV filter/light absorber, enhanced skin absorption concern, hormone disruption, forms toxic metabolites, environmental toxin
OctisalateUV filter/light absorber, enhanced skin absorption- increases sunscreen ingredients to enter the skin, relatively safe (3)
OctocryleneUV filter/light absorber, causes oxygen radicals & resulting cellular level mutations, accumulates in human cells, environmental toxin
Oxybenzone- UV filter/light absorber, hormone disruptor, skin allergen, cellular level changes/mutations, accumulates in human cells, environmental toxin

Inactive Ingredients:
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour- Oats
Behenyl Alcohol- binder, stabilizer
BHT- preservative, concern with organ system toxicity, endocrine disruption, and allergies
ButyloctylSalicylate- aka salicylic acid (used to treat acne)- skin conditioning agent
Caprylyl Methicone- synthetic skin conditioning agent, limited ingredient information
Diethylhexyl 2 6 NaphthalateUV light absorber, phthalates are associated with reproductive and developmental toxicity- confirmed in human studies
Dimethicone- synthetic skin protectant, antifoaming, recommended for restricted use in cosmetics, organ system toxicity, environmentally toxic
Disodium EDTA- enhanced skin absorber (high concern), used to help decrease reactivity of metal ions that may be present in the formula
Ethylhexyl Stearate- human irritant (skin, eyes, lungs)
Ethylhexl Glycerin- deodorant agent, human irritant (skin, eyes, lungs), organ system toxicity concerns
Ethylparabensynthetic preservative, known for endocrine/hormone disruption 
Glyceryl Stearate
Methylparabensynthetic preservative, also know for endocrine/hormone disruption as well as organ system toxicity and cellular level changes (linked to cancer), interferes with gene expression
PEG 100 Stearate- cleansing agent, contamination concerns, moderate organ system toxicity concerns
Phenoxyethanol- alcohol, lubricant
Propylparabensynthetic preservative, mimics estrogen and causes hormone disruption, skin irritant, environmental contamination
Silica- high concerns of bioaccumulation (particularly in aerosol form), possible organ system toxicity
Sodium Polyacrylate- organ toxicity and contamination concerns
Styrene Acrylates Copolymer- skin conditioning, data gaps
Trideceth 6- emulsifying agent, organ system toxicity concerns, environmental toxicity concerns
Trimethylsiloxysilicate- silcon based antifoaming agent, limited info
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer- binder, film forming agent
Water
Xanthan Gum- thickener




The Good
1. Avobenzone is the top of the active ingredients (despite the others)
2. Integration of oats



The Bad
1. Parabens & phthalates (particularly methylparabens & propylparabens) oh my!
2. Countless synthetic ingredients, dangerous sunscreen agents, and immuno/environmental toxins
3. This Aveeno product is FAR from the natural image they try to portray



To love or to loathe, tied with a bow
Fact: There is NO perfect sunscreen! Finding a sunscreen that if safe and effective can be a difficult process- especially when trying to find a reasonably priced one. 

Here are a few simply rules to sift through the bad when reading your labels:




-Skip the parabens, phthlates, oxybenzone,  & retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A): these ingredients are  known to cause issues with hormones, organs, genes, and the environment. INSTEADlook for avobezone, parasol, zinc, titanium dioxide, or Mexoryl SX.

-Avoid high SPF: There is no such thing as perfect coverage- any sunscreen claiming much more than SPF 50 is offering little to no additional coverage.

-Lotion not spray: although they may seem to save time, aerosols require alcohol (harsh for the skin), cheapen the formula of the sunscreen, and  introduce airborne hazards

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